Robuchon in Taiwan can basically break down to two sections. They're both located inside a high-end department store Bellavita. The one on the 3rd floor is more like for light meals and tea, it's called SALON DE THE de Joël Robuchon.
The one on the fifth floor, on the other hand, is the actual full-on restaurant L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon Taipei.
I've been to the tea salon several times, and for many years, I thought the restaurant is at the same location. Only until I decided to book lunch for Mother's Day, that's when I realized that there's also a restaurant side exclusively on the higher floor.
Hopefully my mom would enjoy this meal. After all, we've been to Robuchon au Dôme in Macau back in 2015, and she loved it. It was classic, exquisite, and everything was executed to perfection.
Even though the Taipei branch is leaning more towards casual side, but should be pretty good still, I thought.
The store vibe is basically similar to other L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon branches with its iconic black and red color scheme. They've also use array of fresh white orchid plants to line out different dining areas.
We booked counter seating at first, but when we arrived, they informed us that there was a cancelation for the table seating and asked if we would like to sit there instead. Since I went with my mom, I think the much more spacious table setting designed to fit four people would be a comfier option, so we went ahead and ventured to the sofa/chairs area.
Our table was on the corner next to the wall, which is good since it feels more private that way. But then I saw two of the orchid plants were cut, as only the leaves were still intact, but no more flowers on top. That's not a big deal, just that I would assume restaurant up to this level might care more about such things and strive to maintain a perfect image.
The thing that really bothers me though is that the cabinet next to us had some apple and vase decorations on top, and there were dusts around. Apparently they wiped clean the surface but not as detail-oriented to clean the corners. That, no too ok in this two Michelin-star setting.
At least my mom didn't notice about the dust, that matters the most because this lunch is mainly for her. Also because of that, I decided to skip the simple set or a la carte, and chose a more elaborate tasting menu.
There are two options for the tasting menu, $6,880 NTD/about $230 USD for the whole set or $4,680 NTD/about $157 USD with two less courses. Considering our appetite, we picked the smaller set instead.
I only learnt that there's a new chef recently joining the Robuchon Taipei location not long ago, Japanese chef Yohei Matsuo, who was the head chef in Tokyo branch. I also saw some of the new chef's dishes on the internet, but since I went with the limited tasting menu, I didn't get to try all of them that day.
Perhaps they also kept the most classic dishes on the tasting menu instead of newly created or interpreted version. Either way, whichever items I ordered from the menu should be good. Unfortunately, my Taiwan Robuchon experience was the least favorite among my two other previous Robuchon visits, the one in Macau and the one in Las Vegas.
Gazpacho with ricotta and pistachio.
The sourness touch was actually quite gentle here, it was toned-down by the floral-shaped ricotta. That's why I thought instead of waking up the senses through the sourness from the tomatoes, I think the temperature has taken on a bigger role here.
Bread basket -
Our server didn't mention anything about the varieties we've got in that basket, but did say that these were flavored already. We can enjoy the bread on its own, or accompany with some butter.
When we first sat down and presented with the menu, the wine selection was missing. Perhaps they didn't have one, but our server didn't ask if we would like any wine also. Originally I planned to have at least one glass of champagne to start off the meal, but only up till this point after the bread basket was served, I saw the sommelier coming.
Good thing that the sommelier was very friendly, also more detail-oriented compared to the server earlier. I had a glass of champagne as planned, it's never too late to enjoy champagne.
"How about mommy?"
"Oh, she will skip the wine."
"Why? Champagne is for happiness."
"Trust me, my mom will get too happy is she drinks champagne."
In the end, the sommelier still poured a few sips for my mom, it's a celebration lunch after all, and I really appreciate such kind gesture and hospitality. My mom was happy too, especially after that tiny glass of champagne.
Le crabe royal -
It's almost like a transparent ravioli made with radish. Gently flip over the casing, or more like a blanket in my eye, you'll find crab meat underneath. The main salty flavor relied on the caviar on top.
Les asperges blanches -
Both this and the previous course were on the lighter-tasting side. Saying that, I mean there's a fine line between light and plain. To me, both courses were lacking a kick, more so an impression that one can recall later on. It doesn't have to be heavily seasoned, but the characteristics of the main ingredients should be emphasized even more.
However, execution was great for both dishes in terms of presentation and texture. Taking this white asparagus course for instance, imagine sifting ricotta a couple times, this panna cotta-liked mousse was so creamy, silky, and airy at the same time.
Le kinmedai -
Now this is the dish that successfully presented itself with unique flavors that can be and will be remembered for some time.
The sauce was delicious with main savory note extracted from chorizo. Along with that dense rounded flavor from the chorizo, the lobster sauce paired up with it seamlessly. Chorizo works well with so many ingredients, and crustacean is definitely one of the best way to go.
Two options for the main dish, we got both to try, first came the le caille -
Quail and foie gras. The one with skinny bone intact had a coating reminiscence of teriyaki sauce. It's sweet and salty at the same time with thickened texture to it.
The sommelier stopped by and checked on us a couple times. He especially rushed to us again when seeing our main courses have been brought over. Turned out that he wanted to let us know that we can ask for refill for the infamous Robuchon mashed potatoes if we'd like.
Indeed, Robuchon's mashed potatoes is a classic. Even my mom praised about it after she took a bite, and that's the only compliment she gave among all the dishes that day. It's very dense but yet so creamy and velvety. I love to press down the mashed potatoes with my tongue because it feels like jumping to a bed filled with soft and fluffy pillows. Not mentioning the buttery aroma soon spreading out.
The other main dish, le boeuf -
Put the beef aside, the parsnip purée was surprisingly good. Initially it almost tasted like green apple with its sweet aroma and a slightly tangy hint. The purée acted like a supporting role to the steak, also further provided a refreshing touch to the commonly heavy beef course.
L'orange -
Pre-dessert was very good. Consists of citrusy granita and fromage blanc ice cream, it got both the fruity and floral tones and smoothly sew together with a brush of honey aroma. Light but pleasantly pleasing to the senses. In fact, this l'orange and the upcoming main dessert were both wonderful, even surpassing all the previous savory dishes per my opinion.
Tea, coffee, and chocolate macarons -
La sphère -
Too pretty to break it with a spoon, but in order to get the goodies hidden within, I have to be cruel for a moment.
Inside you'll find pickled sakura rice pudding and plum wine gelée, showcasing its take on Japanese ingredients, also echoing the arrival of the new Japanese head chef.
Pickled sakura and plum wine might sound too strong at first, but merely the essence, enough to enlighten the palate without overpowering all the other elements. The contrast between the crunchy sugar coating and the soft filling was lovely as well.
The final madeleines -
Don't take Michelin star status for granted, also don't fully count on the international fame, these are my conclusions. The service, at least the service from the sommelier was great, others nothing too outstanding to talk about. The place, I've only had a slight issue with the dust around the decor. Food-wise, it's good, but not too sure if it lives up the definition of two stars.
Even my mom didn't say much about our lunch. In fact, she did compliment on the mashed potatoes, but that's it. No further reaction or that happy face when eating something very satisfying were shown. Gladly she was still pretty content after the meal, I guess a little Mother's Day present that I gave her prior our lunch has something to do with it.
Will I visit L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon Taipei again? With that price tag, I think there're many great options in Taipei. The most I would come back again for a simpler a la carte dish, and hopefully next time around it'll change my mind for good.
L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon Taipei currently holds two Michelin star status.
L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon Taipei
5F, No. 28, Songren Rd., Xinyi Dist.,
Taipei City, Taiwan (inside Bellavita department store)
+886 2-8729-2628
Restaurant website: https://www.joel-robuchon.com/fr/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/LatelierdeJoelRobuchonTaipei
Opening hours:
Sunday through Thursday lunch 11:30 a.m. ~ 2:30 p.m.
Sunday through Thursday dinner 6:00 p.m. ~ 10:00 p.m.
Friday 11:30 a.m. ~ 2:30 p.m.
Saturday 10:30 a.m. ~ 10:30 p.m.
