The very first Fujiya was dated back in 1935, where the current chef's great grandfather ran a dining hall and a rice merchant business side by side. Years passed, this place passed down to grandfather, father, and now the forth generation chef Tetsuya Fujiwara.
The styles of the dishes have evolved and further interpreted by the current chef, who spent years of culinary journey in Europe.
As I entered the restaurant, the maître d' confirmed my reservation and asked me to wait a moment. The waiting area had a few tables and a water dropping display. The dimmed lighting and the dark green/blue-ish surface made the droplets look like mercury. One by one, the silver bullets slowly circling to the midst of darkness.
The server came out and greeted the customers. Based on time of arrival, the server guided the customers to the actual restaurant. Fujiya1935 has a long rectangular shaped layout. Customers walked pass the semi-opened kitchen on the first floor, entering to second floor dining area. Restrooms are located on the third floor.
My table was right next to the stairway, a good peaking window to the busy but very well organized kitchen.
The restaurant provided same set menu for every customer. Once seated, the server brought over a service plate, utensils, water, and a hot towel -
It was a simple lunch, so I only ordered one glass of French white wine instead of full on wine pairing to go with the meal -
Gentle plum-like aroma, which paired very well with a series of fall inspired dishes. Not too plain yet not too strong, a good hint of acidity to highlight the flavors.
Meal started with Fujiya1935's signature airy bread -
"Chestnut bread with air bubbles."
The texture was almost fluffy-like and softer than steamed cake. There were also smaller bits of chestnut throughout, that along with the moist texture still managed to hold its shape well without collapsing.
"Conger eel, ancient rice" -
Never a big fan of eel but this might be my favorite bite of eel over the past several years. The rice carried a stronger character than the usual kind - firmer, sturdier, also in a way chewier. The eel was soft, moist, and not even one tiny edible bone was found.
It was seasoned with fresh wasabi and tiny bits of young ginger. The components might sound overpowering but the overall flavor was in fact very well balanced and provided just the right kick to start off the meal.
"Parent sweetfish confit, sauce of river weed" -
Seasonal fish with eggs inside. As I pressed down the spoon trying to separate the head and the body, the fish went crackled apart. It was cooked to crispy, eating the head was like enjoying a bite of well seasoned fried crumbs.
The fish carries a natural gentle bitterness flavor, the pickled cucumber took a role cutting through that taste while providing a refreshing touch at the same time.
Two wooden boxes came to the table -
Bread served with salted lard and soy milk/walnut paste -
Slight yeasty aroma. I personally preferred the nutty walnut spread than the luscious lard.
"Spaghetti, blue crab, black soybeans, Mimolette cheese" -
The less common Mimolette cheese looks like an old and dried melon, slightly sweet and filled with nutty aroma. Adding a good portion to the spaghetti, I couldn't even identify if the sweet scent was from the crab or from the cheese.
"Pork from Fukui, shiitake mushrooms" -
Beautifully cooked slice of pork. The pork jus mixed with some olive oil was drizzled after the plate has been brought over to the table.
This high quality pork was almost beef-like, tastes very similar to veal. Along with thin and crunchy edges, the pork was very, very delicious. However, the shiitake mushroom did not let the pork took away all the spotlights. Prepared tempura style, the thin crust was lightly seasoned, added extra satisfaction when biting into the juicy meaty fungus.
"Kiwi berry sherbet and lime cream" -
Then the server brought over a hot box. Smoke gradually permeated the table as soon as the lid was lifted, a gentle cracking noise can also be heard while tiny fire sparkles trying to hold on to the oxygen -
"Chestnut pudding, coffee jelly of rum flavor" -
Definitely a dessert designed for adults. The jelly alone was bitter and slightly smoky, worked well with sweet chestnut pudding on the bottom.
After the meal, selection of espresso, herbal tea, or black tea -
Menu was provided in the end -
Considering the service, the ambiance, the food, and the presentation involved in my two hour long dining experience, a costly meal perhaps? In fact, the whole lunch set plus one extra glass of French white wine was under $100 USD. What more can you ask for?
Fujiya1935 currently holds three Michelin stars status.
2-4-14 Yariyamachi Chuo-ku, Osaka 540-0027
Lunch 12:00 noon ~ 1:00 p.m. last order
Dinner 6:00 p.m. ~ 8:00 p.m. last order
Close on Sundays and first Monday of the month